Creating Estelle image

Overall Im fairly pleased with the outcome of the look. Overall I think the make up looks good and has subtle hints of a doll-like nature without being too over the top. I feel that the hair lets the look down a little, I needed to back comb and volumes the side sections of hair as they're a little too flat to her head. I also left a couple small segments of hair uncurled which I didn't notice until I got to taking my pictures. I think the hair looks better from the side than it does from the font du to the lack of volume but this could have been rectified with further practice with my model. In hindsight, I wish Id put further thought in to the styling of these pictures and my character, I feel the shirt I put her in is a little too modern and I lose some of the victorian essence. 

Contemporary Victorian Gothic Hair styles- inspired by American horror

For my project, I am looking at AHS: Asylum, which is set in the late 50's early 60s.

So instead of adapting a victorian hairstyle, I decided to create one suitable for my tv series.

 Both these images of the character from the show feature a volumes bouffant style that appears to be backcombed at the roots and left to curl at the ends. 

I wanted to create very fun, bouncy waves as the base for this style. So i put heated rollers in to the hair symmetrically across the head with the hair curled upwards everywhere apart from at the parting. 

 Once the rollers has cooled, I removed them and brushed through the hair. I then backcombed all over at the roots, being gently at the front of the head as these needed to remain smoother.

 I then brush the hair lightly backwards spraying to maintain the shape and using the brush to smooth the top layer of hair.

Really pleased with the final result, love the volume it created. The ends look a little scraggly - so if i recreate this look i will pay more attention to the ends of the hair. 

Dark eyes and lips.

As part of our practical session we were given the task to create a 'dark eyes and lips' look.

I tried to recreate something similar to this image from the Dolce & Gabanna S/S 2010 runway show.

- I applied my base as i usually would, however i used extra highlighting products around the cheekbones and forehead.
- I DID NOT POWDER ON TOP
- I contoured using the concealer palette
- I added definition to the brows using powders from the kryolan eye palette with a angled brush
- I created a dewy look by gently dabbing vaseline in to the skin for some extra effect
- In this image and others, the eyes looked very wide so i applied some white liner to the waterline to enhance this
- I applied to layers of bright red lipstick, blotting in between and then dusted a little powder on top to mattify.

Im genuinely really pleased with the outcome. I love how her skins looks, very flawless and dewy.
I could have blended the contour better as looking back on it, it does stick out a little.
I also wish I had added some eyeliner to the top lid to enhance the lashes and darken them swell as the brows.

Creating light scaring, using molds ,how to attach to the skin, how to colour

Creating scarring and wounds with moulds: how to attach and colour.

Tools needed:
Ready made gelatine scars.
Proclean solution.
Mould release (or vaseline if you can not afford this)
Witch hazel solution (found in most toners) 
Talcum powder 
Prosade 
Kryolan supra colour palette 
Cotton buds 
Kryolan wound filler and fresh scratch.
Kryolan viva palette.



1) Begin by applying barrier foam to the skin and Prosade to stick the mould to the skin make sure this is clear as if it is still white it will slide instead of sticking to the skin. 
2) Melt the edges of the mould using a cotton bud and witch hazel solution. 
3) Once this has been done and looks natural, powder the mould with talcum powder. 
4) Take the Kryolan supra colour palette and fill in the wound using a mixture of red, brown and black depending on the age of the wound/scar. 
5) Fill the wound with the Kryolan wound filler 
6) Apply fresh scratch around the mould to make it look more authentic. 
7) Dab the purple, pink and brown from the viva palette around the wound to again make this look more authentic.
8) To remove this use the mould release and proclean solution.

Creating Miss Havisham - continuity image.

For this post I will be comparing images taken from my initial timed assessment and my second timed assessment where I was attempting to recreate the Miss Havisham look for continuity.

Initial timed assessment

Second timed assessment for continuity

On the day of the assessment I felt i had rushed the whole thing due to the fact that i finished much earlier than the previous time I created the look. I also realised after shooting my look that I forgotten to contour down the nose which i knew would make the overall face look rather different to photos of my previous attempt. I was also a little disappointed that I ran out of dry shampoo, used to whiten and a dusty effect to the hair, which meant the hair looked bighter and less dull and dusty than the time before. 

When I compare the photos taken on this day to the ones from two weeks previous I also notice a couple of other details Im not happy with. I found that although id forgotten the dry shampoo, the hair overall wasnt too different in tone. However, the hair on the second attempt was much curlier than previously. I did notice this during the timed assessment and tried to remedy it but trying to straighten the curls out a little but found that in the end they sprang back up too much. 

I also find that the lips in my second continuity assessment are brighter and much healthier looking which takes away from the overall effect of the look. 

Overall, I think I made a good effort on this look and the continuity of it but the result is by no means perfect. I think overall my Miss Havisham concept of self neglect has good groundings and is suited well to its purpose (theatre play) sue to its realistic nature and dramatisation of features such as the hollowed cheeks and sore eyes. In future, when working for continuity I will pay further attention to small details and make sure that I am fully prepared to recreate a look to the the exact same standard. 

Burns, how to recreate, with different products

 How to create with different products.

Tools needed:
Gelatine
Barrier foam
Glycerine
Old age stipple
Kryolan supra colour
Kryolan wound filler and fresh scratch
Talcum powder
Spray colour
Spatula
Hairdryer

How to create with gelatine
1) Begin by applying barrier foam to the area of skin.
2) Take a piece of gelatine and put in the microwave to melt it.
3) check the temperature before applying to the skin.
4) Using the spatula spread over the skin, making sure there is no harsh lines.
5) Using a hairdryer on the cold setting dry the gelatine.
6) When this is dry apply a layer of talcum powder.
7) using the kryolan supra colour palette dab colour onto the gelatine in red, brown and black.
8) Then repeat this to the area around the gelatine to make it blend.
9) Take the Kryolan wound filler and fresh scratch and repeat the two previous steps.
10) Apply a layer of Vaseline to this to make it look as though it is weeping. 

How to create using old age stipple.

1) Apply a layer of barrier foam to the skin (in this case it was the hand)

2) Then stretch the skin out so that it is all smooth and there are no wrinkles.
3) Apply a layer of old age stipple to the skin using a sponge.
4) Once this is dry gently rub the skin to give the appearance of dry skin and the layers of skin peeling.
5) Take the spray paint colours in brown and spray a layer over the hand.
6) Then take the Kryolan wound filler and fresh scratch and apply a light layer where the skin looks like it has peeled.
7) Finally apply a layer of Vaseline to this to give the appearance of a weeping burn.

Practice look of Miss Havisham both hair and make up technical classes

Now I had both my hair and make up designs completed, I wanted to practise the entire look on my model before my assessment to make sure i was completely comfortable with it and to ensure that i fit within the commercial timings. 

 My two final designs:

So a few days before the assessment I got in to the studio with my partner Aine to practice the whole look. I needed to be wary that I had 2 hours which included prepping, completing the look, photographing, having it checked by the assessor and packing away my station suitably. So all in all, I would have 1 hour 30 minutes for actual practical work. I found from previous rehearsals that my hairstyling only took roughly 40 minutes to complete, although my make up design is somewhat a bit more detailed and meticulous therefore would probably take a little longer.

Overall really pleased with the outcome and I think it represents whats on my hair and face chart rather well. I didn't have any dry shampoo with me at the time, so I wasnt able to complete that stage of the hair design but I will ensure that for the real thing I will have plenty of dry shampoo to complete the design. 

For the assessment I will need:

Hair: clips, hair grips, curling tongs, hairspray, dry shampoo, a tail comb, a backcomb brush, clear hair bands, a hair tye.

Make up: Foundation Palette, supra Colour palette, Illamasqua skinbase 01, Illamasqua translucent powder, Eyeshadow Palette, Black mascara & wands, Duo eyelash glue

Victorian hair styles - Estelle and Miss Havisham - Late 1800s

in the 1870's fringes came in fashion, the body of the hairstyle was up higher than previously in the century. 
Hair styles were much smoother at the sides and often featured adornments like bows and flowers. 

How to create a typical late 18th century style:
- Start with a centre parting (Use the mirror!)
- Section off the front section, narrowing towards the ears

- Take a horse shoe shape in to a high ponytail at the back of the head

- Take the ponytail in small section and tong, making sure to tuck the ends in
- Back comb these sections a little, use your fingers to turn in to little twists and pin down

- Ringlet the rest of the hair beneath, holding the tong horizontally at first and twisting to curl the hair vertically
- Play around with the curls and pin around the original ponytail area in a pretty manner

- With the front sections, take sections and from the bottom and tong as normal. incorporate these in to the back sections using pins

- with the two or three top sections by the parting, tong them horizontally and then brush through to create waves.

- To age the hair, you can use dry shampoo all over. 

Cuts, scratches, bruises and the perfect black eye

Black Eye

 You will need:

- Supra Colour palette or a Kryolan bruise palette

Think about:

How was the bruise created? How old is it?

Build up the bruise using tones of yellow, purple, brown and even blue.

Remember to blend seamlessly.

Wounds

You will need:

- Cinewax/Plasto

- Spirit gum

- Sealer

- Fake blood/puss/dirt

-Collodion (used for old cuts and scars)

- Tuplast can be used for gashes

- Mould the cinewax on the back of your hand to warm it up for a butter like texture

- Roll the wax in to a sausage shape

-Place it on to the skin and mould so the edges are seamless

- Cut the wax down the middle

- Use a pin to play around the gash

- Add sealer or latex on top with a cotton bud

- Cleanser and moisturiser can be used to help mould the wound

- Use a mixture of foundations, colours, blood, dirt and wound filler to add depth to the wound

Old scarring

To create the effect of an old scar:

- Apply derma shield to the skin first

- Apply Collodion to the area and then pinch the skin together to make a crease

- Dry with a hairdryer on a cool setting 

Theatrical Aging

Practical: Theatrical Aging

When you consider working for film, television and performing arts as a make up artist there are elements of special effects you will be need to know how to complete. for example..cuts, bruising, ill complexion, old age. 

Today I will be outlining my work in theatrical ageing. Theatrical ageing is an exaggerated way of making a perfumer look elderly to the extent that it could be seen from the back of an audience of theatre. This type of make up is not subtle and would not be suitable for film or television work. 

Items you will commonly need:
- Black Stipple Sponges
- Fine Orange stipple sponges
- Supra Colour Palette
- Old Age Stipple (Always patch test)
- Barrier foam (to protect the skin)
- Hair spray (Kryolan is most cost effective)

If you are using grease based products, which I did, then moisturise the skin first.

To apply theatrical ageing:
- Tie all hair off the face 
- Apply a light natural foundation base to the face including the lips, a shade lighter than you would normally go for
- Ask your model to hold facial expressions to reveal natural crease lines
- Whilst your model holds these faces, using a fine angled brush paint lines in to these creases using a mid brown or grey tone
- Gradually build these lines up
- Add some contouring to areas where the face naturally goes in i.e the cheekbones and around the eyes
- Using your thumb gently smudge these lines to give them more of a natural look
- Using your supra colour palette, mix a tiny amount of yellow in to white and brush through the eyebrows using a clean mascara wand.
Important note: white alone can often come out slightly blue on camera!
- using a mixture of red supra colour with a tiny amount of blue, stipple on to the cheeks lightly to give the impression of broken veins 
- If you want to give the impression of decay, apply some coloured tooth enamel to the teeth using a baby bud. to remove, use a baby bud dipped in mentholated spirit to wipe away. 

I am really pleased with my attempt at theatrical ageing, above. I feel like it actually looks quite convincing. However if this was intended for the theatre or a live performance, the effect would need to be further emphasised as people on the back rows would not be able to see as well and the effects would be lost. I think the eyebrows brushed with the white supra colour actually bring the whole looks together and finish it off very genuinely. I equally feel like I've mixed together a very natural tone of brown that suits my models complexion. 

How to Crepe the skin

- Apply Barrier shield to the skin to protect the skin more sensitivity or staining

- Stretch the area of skin out so it appears super smooth and wrinkle free

- whilst stretched out, apply old age stipple using a sponge making sure to stipple it on to the skin to avoid any harsh lines

- Using a hairdryer on its cool setting, move the air over the area of skin constantly moving to avoid pooling the liquid

- Allow to completely dry

- Once dried, release the skin to reveal the bunching of the skin and the allusion of wrinkles

Early Victorian Hairstyles

Practical: Early Victorian Hairstyle

During my seminar this week I tried my hand at creating two typical victorian hairstyles, one early period and one mid period. 

My intended style is like the one seen in this portrait of Miss Agnes Strickland, date unknown, featuring a mid height knot, centre parting and tight 'drop curls' on either side of the head. 

Portrait of Agnes Strickland
http://tinyurl.com/pu5973n

This is how I created the style: 

1. Begin by sectioning the hair. draw a line down the centre of the head using the nose a judgment point to create a centre parting. from the back to just behind the ear, section off and clip out of the way. Repeat on each side. 

2. Take the loose hair at the back of the head, tie into a ponytail using a hairband in a medium to ugh position. Twist the hair and coil around itself then secure with bobby pins. Use Hairspray to avoid any fly away hairs. 

3. Taking long thing sections, starting at the front of the head, curl section of hair approximately an inch wide inwards towards the face. trying to tuck the ends in to create a nice neat curl. When you have released the curl from the tong, do not separate with your fingers.

I think to improve this look and make it look more traditional, the curls needed to be tighter and more structured. On the side view you can see little pieces out of place and falling away. I also thing my curls needed to start further down nearer the ears and the hair needed to be smoother to the head at the top. I also feel that although the parting is very straight, its not central and thus makes it look a little modernised which wasn't what i was intending. 

I moved on from this to create a slightly later, mid century victorian style that incorporated a plait. The Process for this was the same, I just brushed out the curls and left my sectioning as it was. 

1. Taking all the loose hair from one side, pull it forward towards the face and plait conventionally. 

2. Holding the plait flat against the face, loop it so some of the ear can be seen and secure at the nape of the neck or incorporate in to the knot with bobby pins. 

My first attempt at this looked a bit sloppy and didn't seem to sit right when I tried to incorporate it in to the rest of the style. 

My second attempt however looked much better and seemed to look a lot more traditional than the first attempt. I had managed to rectify this by starting my plaiting further down the hair just by the ear.